Installing the main battery racks:
Before loading them in, I reinstalled the trim panels and the carpeting since I figured it would be really hard to do that after the racks are in place. Of course I then found out that the trim panel interferes with the box. So I had to cut a slot in the trim panel on each side near the rear seatbelt anchors.
Here are the main racks in place with the wood bottoms installed.
There are 10 bolts (either 3/8 or M14) attaching the racks to the car frame. Here are images of a couple of those. The first picture is looking at the front of the rack where it is attached to the floor of the car where the rear passengers' feet used to be. The second picture shows the back of the rack where it is attached to the trunk floor just ahead of the spare tire well. In both cases the floor sheet metal is sandwiched between two 1/8" steel plates.
Now that the racks are in their final resting position, I could finalize the location of the conduit that will carry the main battery cables from these racks to the motor controller and front battery rack. Here's a picture which shows the caulked opening. The outlet to the junction box located in the hump is seen poking through. A piece of flex conduit will attach to that and run up to an elbow which will enter the battery box at the level of the top of the batteries.
Before I can assemble the boxes and put the batteries in, though, I need to get the car back on its wheels. I am worried about the car sitting on jack stands with all that weight!
Things to do before the wheels go on:
- Run the 12V and PakTrakr wires from the engine compartment to the trunk.
- Run the charger wires and #2 battery cables from the rear battery box to the engine compartment (through the PVC conduit).
- Run the wires from the engine compartment to the dashboard (gauge wires, Regen box wires, heater control wires).
- Re-assemble fender skirts and front bumper.
- Complete 12V and signal wiring in engine compartment.
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